What Is Cannabis Treatment? – Curing is a procedure involving the aging/drying of harvested plant material in order to refine the moisture content and allow for the decomposition of sugars and chlorophyll before to ingestion. Numerous plants, including cannabis, hemp, sagebrush, bay leaves, tea leaves, and tobacco, are cured.
What is the procedure of curing?
Curing is any of numerous food preservation and flavoring methods involving the addition of salt to foods such as meat, fish, and vegetables in order to take moisture out of the item by osmosis. Because curing raises the solute concentration and, thus, reduces the meal’s water potential, the food becomes hostile to the growth of spoilage-causing microorganisms.
Curing dates back to antiquity and was the major method of meat and fish preservation until the late 19th century. Dehydration was the first method of food preservation. Many curing procedures also entail smoking, seasoning, heating, or the addition of sugar, nitrate, and nitrite in various combinations.
Meat preservation in general (of meat from cattle, game, and poultry) refers to the set of all techniques used to preserve the characteristics, taste, texture, and color of raw, partially cooked, or cooked meats while maintaining their safety for human consumption.
- Curing has been the predominant technique of meat preservation for millennia, but contemporary innovations such as refrigeration and synthetic preservatives have begun to supplement and eventually replace it.
- While meat-preservation processes such as curing were originally developed to prevent disease and increase food security, the advent of modern preservation techniques has meant that in most developed countries, curing is now primarily practiced for its cultural significance and desirable effect on the texture and flavor of food.
Curing is a crucial step in the production, transport, and availability of meat in developing nations. Some classic cured meats (including real Parma ham, authentic Spanish chorizo, and authentic Italian salami) are cured solely with salt. Potassium nitrate (KNO 3) and sodium nitrite (NaNO 2) (in combination with salt) are the most widely used preservatives for meat because they bind to myoglobin and function as an oxygen replacement, rendering myoglobin red.
- These compounds limit the development of the bacteria that cause botulism, according to more recent data.
- Yet, according to a 2018 study by the British Meat Producers Association, legally permitted levels of nitrite have no effect on the growth of the Clostridium botulinum bacteria that causes botulism, which is in line with the Advisory Committee on the Microbiological Safety of Food’s opinion that nitrites are not required to prevent C.
botulinum growth and extend shelf life. The mixture of table salt with nitrates or nitrites, known as curing salt, is commonly colored pink to differentiate it from table salt. None of the nitrites or nitrates usually employed in curing (such as sodium nitrate, sodium nitrite, or potassium nitrate) are naturally pink.
Does curing enhance odor?
It reeks like freshly-mown grass – The aroma of newly cut grass indicates that cannabis chlorophyll is degrading into ammonia. This issue arises throughout the curing process and is indicative of insufficient curing. Curing is an extra phase in the preservation of cannabis, occurring after drying and prior to ingestion.
Properly curing cannabis helps it to grow into a form that retains its freshness for up to two years. This process, if rushed or improperly completed, can result in cannabis that smells like grass clippings. Curing is comparable to the aging of wine or cheese. Some cannabis cultivators claim that lengthy curing enhances the final product’s taste.
The drying and curing of cannabis may be a sensitive procedure. It needs a controlled atmosphere with precise amounts of temperature, humidity, and airflow. The initial drying phase occurs at room temperature, 40-50% relative humidity, and with ample air movement.
Related The definitive approach to drying and curing cannabis for optimal outcomes After cannabis has been initially dried, it is trimmed and split into flowers. The cannabis is then sealed in an airtight container and placed in a cold, dark location until the buds have rehydrated significantly. Initial drying pulls the moisture into the center of the plant, but a delayed cure in a sealed jar forces the moisture to be distributed more uniformly, aiding the metabolism of sugars, starches, and nutrients.
A thorough treatment extends the shelf life of cannabis to two years. Importantly, the container must be “burped” frequently during curing to refill the oxygen levels. When cannabis is opened for burping while curing is completed, it will smell like newly cut grass or lawn clippings.
- However, after the procedure is complete, the cannabis aroma will return.
- If you acquire cannabis that smells like ammonia or newly cut grass, something went wrong during the drying or curing process.
- Almost certainly, the cannabis has not fully cured.
- Cannabis that has not been fully cured will have a harsh flavor, which is likely owing to the presence of ammonia.
There are also some indications that it may constitute a health concern. Toxic quantities of ammonia were detected in a 2008 investigation of illegal cannabis in the United Kingdom.
Why are my teeth so crunchy?
Another foundation of plant life, light allows cannabis plants to produce their own energy. Without light, it is impossible to cultivate cannabis buds. However, excessive light may burn the higher portions of your plant, causing the leaves to brown and even harming the colas. If you allow your canopy to grow too tall, you can anticipate discoloration, dehydration, and decreased yields.
Do buds contract when they dry?
In addition to addressing the aforementioned issues, the following is a comprehensive discussion of seven additional techniques for increasing bud density (more complete info in the article below or click the links)
- Reduce humidity below 55% RH in the final two to three weeks before to harvest – Inducing a natural plant response by reducing the relative humidity at the end of the blooming period can make cannabis buds denser and enhance resin production. Even if density is not a concern, this is a good idea because decreased humidity considerably minimizes the likelihood of losing buds to bud rot.
- There are two primary categories of density-boosting supplements. The first category concentrates on boosting plant processes and employs hundreds of diverse substances, such as amino acids, trace minerals, and natural plant growth regulators (avoid synthetic PGRs ). The second class of supplements increase Phosphorus and Potassium levels directly, as healthy bud development cannot occur without them.
- Don’t harvest too early – If you pick too early, your blooms won’t fully mature. They grow a great deal of weight and density in the final weeks before harvest, and you are sabotaging your efforts by harvesting them too early.
- Dry and cure your flowers in jars – In addition to enhancing flavor, aroma, and potency, properly drying and curing your buds will lead them to “tighten up” a bit. If you dry your buds incorrectly or don’t cure them in a sealed container such as a glass jar, you’re missing out on about half of what defines the quality of your finished buds.
- Avoid overwatering your plants — it’s a cliche, but it’s true! Don’t neglect this regular problem and be careful to water your plants properly. If your plant’s leaves are drooping, you may be missing out on opportunities for more development.
- If your container is too tiny, your plant simply won’t be able to support larger, denser buds regardless of what else you do. If feasible, choose a “smart pot” or “air pot” since they minimize overwatering, promote plant development, and accommodate bigger plants.
- Avoid allowing buds to grow on thin, flexible, or subsidiary stems while training plants to produce sturdy main stems. Buds are often densest on stout stems that have reached the plant’s canopy from the plant’s base. This is the concept underpinning training methods such as manifolding. Even if you don’t employ any special training procedures, it helps to remove short or stringy branches prior to the formation of buds (particularly remove stems that haven’t reached the top of the plant, since they will never generate healthy buds). Ideally, each bud has a sturdy stem and its own place beneath the grow light.
Continue reading to discover more about these strategies and approaches for increasing the density of buds. By the conclusion of today’s course, you will be an authority on density. How to Grow Cannabis Buds That Are Always Dense
Do flowers bloom in the dark?
Photoperiod cannabis is sensitive to fluctuations in the number of hours of daylight it gets. Without lengthy nights, photoperiod cannabis strains cannot convert from vegetative to blooming development. The biological trigger for photoperiod cannabis to bloom is 12 or more hours of darkness.
Why are my flowers so delicate?
What causes buds to be fluffy, loose, and airy? – There are several reasons of airy buds, but the good news is that they are all extremely simple to remedy. The initial factor is genetics. The marijuana strain selected will affect every element of its growth.
Ultimately, the genetics will determine the bud’s aroma, flavor, THC and CBD concentrations, and physical appearance. Growers should conduct thorough study on their strains and then purchase seeds from a reliable breeder. Again, indica strains will naturally have the densest buds structure. Although sativa strains may produce buds that are loose and airy, this does not indicate that sativa strains are immune to producing such buds.
Neither does this imply that indica types cannot have airy buds. Once a robust strain has been selected, it must be cultivated appropriately. The amount of light a cannabis plant receives is a crucial part of its growth. It is essential to consider both quality and quantity.
- The fluorescent or compact fluorescent light source must be as close to the plants as feasible.
- In addition, producers must ensure that the sun and heat will not burn the plants.
- LEDs have various specs, thus there is no optimal height for them.
- Check the manufacturer’s guidelines prior to utilizing LEDs.
Temperature also has a significant effect in the development of the plant and its buds. During the flowering phase, temperatures between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit are optimal for the majority of plants. Above this temperature, the buds may begin to display difficulties, including airy buds.
Additionally, genetics will play a role here. It is essential to remember that, although sativas normally thrive in warmer climates, indicas do not. Conversely, indicas can withstand lower temps pretty well. The nutrients or fertilizer a plant receives will also have a significant influence on the development of its flowers.
Flowering plants require a little amount of nitrogen, a large amount of potassium, and a substantial amount of phosphorus. Different nutritional needs exist throughout the vegetative stage. Growers must employ two distinct nutrient mixtures. Light and temperature are crucial factors.
- However, a grower’s efforts might be squandered if the growing environment lacks enough ventilation.
- Plants require much airflow and movement in their environment.
- This permits the lower buds and branches to get the same amount of light and warmth as the upper branches, allowing them to flourish.
- If several plants are crammed into the same grow space or if there is little air circulation, the buds may be airy.
When it comes to a plant’s ability to move, air and room in the grow environment are not the only crucial factors. The plant must also be grown in a container that is large enough to accommodate its growth. This will provide the plant and its roots ample space to move and expand.
- Providing the necessary room for the roots to completely grow.
- It will also prevent plants from excluding the oxygen they require.
- Also, overwatering might result in loose, puffy buds.
- Too much water in the soil or growing medium prevents oxygen from reaching the roots.
- This will be damaging to the plant as a whole.
This can also frequently remove vital nutrients the buds require to develop large and thick. Timing is also essential for the healthy growth and development of plants. Once the buds begin to form, they will require time to become compact and thick. If the buds are removed too early, they will not have the time to become large and dense.
- Lastly, while all parts of the growing and harvesting phases are significant, the period following harvest is also crucial.
- The drying and curing process following harvest allows the buds’ flavor, fragrance, and potency to fully mature.
- However, this also allows the buds to become denser and more compact.
If the buds are not given sufficient time to dry and cure, the result might be airy buds.
Can I remove a bud from my plant?
Step 4: Trim buds – Now that just the buds remain, it’s time to trim them. If the buds are excessively large, divide them into smaller buds. A large blossom may have an impressive appearance, but its uneven drying makes it prone to mold. To trim: Cut the stem at the base of the bud as nearly as possible without causing it to split apart.
- You only want the stem to be visible at the very bottom.
- Remove the crow’s feet, which are the leaves at the base of the plant that resemble little bird feet.
- Remove excess plant material and groom the bud.
- Eep your scissors at an angle and in motion.
- After some time, you won’t even remember it.
- The objective is to remove everything that is not completely covered in trichomes.
Create an even surface surrounding the buds. This involves removing red pistils to the foliage level. Pistils contain relatively few or no trichomes. Place each completed bud in its own basin or plate. Wet trimming necessitates placing the final buds on a drying rack for several days.
What is bud rot look like?
How do I determine if I have bud rot? Initially, bud rot damages a plant’s stem, which appears gray and squishy. As the infection advances, symptoms of bud rot include wilted, yellow, and blackened leaves. Bud rot is difficult to detect in advance because the fungus initially takes hold within the plant and then spreads to its outside.
- When attempting to detect bud rot, examine questionable buds between fissures and crevices to discover if the core is decaying.
- If the core seems wet and brown, place the plant in a quarantine bag and remove it from the room.
- Next, collect samples and check the other plants to establish whether the bud rot has spread.
If you discover other diseased plants, repeat the same steps. Occasionally, plants with bud rot grow a gray webbing or white, powdery spores. Spores pose a concern since they are easily dispersed by wind, water, and pollinators, including you and other grow room employees.
To limit the spread of spores, wear a specific protective suit in each grow room or change your clothes between rooms. Transform an unstable growth environment into one where precise environmental control may be achieved and maintained. Quest 876 Dehumidifier Bud rot is a gray mold that thrives in areas with poor air circulation and excessive humidity, circumstances that promote the growth and development of fungi.
Melaney Watson, a manufacturing representative for Quest, stated, “Bud rot does not occur overnight and is particularly prevalent in bigger buds and thick plants because they collect and accumulate moisture.” Additionally, plants that grow close together are more susceptible to infection.
Because indoor growers have greater control over their environment in terms of temperature, lighting, ventilation, and humidity levels, fungi tend to be less of a concern inside. Due to the inability of outdoor growers to regulate rainfall or morning dew, outdoor plants may become wet daily or overnight.
Bud rot is a common problem in outdoor cultivation, especially in coastal areas, where it is difficult to maintain humidity levels. “For outdoor producers, a leaf blower is an excellent tool for removing surplus water from plants,” explained seasoned farmer Jared Dinsmore.
What happens when your buds dry up too quickly?
The Issue With Dried Cannabis – Cannabis that has been over-dried has less scent and flavor (terpenes) and burns hotter and quicker. The latter difficulties result in an unpleasant client experience and often necessitate consuming a bigger quantity of cannabis to achieve the desired effect.
When cannabis is dried for too long or too quickly, the lighter, more delicate essential oils are lost (terpenes). The lighter, more volatile terpenes have the lowest evaporation points and evaporate prior to water during drying. In locations with low relative humidity (RH), such as Arizona, Colorado, and Nevada, it may be quite simple to overdry cannabis.
I have witnessed perfectly dried and cured buds from California collapse after being placed on a table in a Denver hotel room during the cold for barely minutes. Obviously, many other elements impact and add to the quality of dried and cured cannabis, beginning with the harvest.
- I’ve witnessed ignorant producers, who lacked an appreciation for the subtleties and delicate aspects of cannabis, adopt a “dry it quickly so we can sell it quickly” mentality.
- Others may attempt to dry plants gathered on Friday with those collected on Thursday, alongside those harvested on Wednesday, etc.
In such cases, the moisture produced by plants picked on Friday is absorbed by plants collected on Wednesday. I’ve also seen cannabis drying rooms with enclosed environments with simply heaters and dehumidifiers, which makes it impossible to fully manage the climate; the capacity to ingest fresh air and exhaust heat and moisture is essential for drying big quantities of cannabis effectively and uniformly.
How dark does drying room need to be?
Light or Darkness? – The drying area should be a cold, dark environment where no light enters or touches the buds. As plants are allowed to die on the vine and then hung in the dry room, keeping them in the dark ensures that the chlorophyll scent and flavor are completely eliminated, leaving only terpene-rich, fragrant blossoms.
Why are my buds so light and airy?
Extreme temperatures (particularly heat) – Many gardeners disregard environmental concerns during the blossoming period of a plant. Growers are frequently unaware of how detrimental this might be to their harvest. It is easy to disregard environmental issues like as heat because your plants and buds are normally still growing.
If plants are healthy, the heat should be OK, correct? Regrettably, no. When the air is very warm (over 80°F/26°C) during the blossoming period, the buds tend to become lighter and airier. Occasionally, as a result of heat, buds produce unattractive foxtails. Buds are less thick when it’s too hot. Consider the loose structure of this bud that has been cultivated under intense heat.
Additionally, cold air can cause buds to become tiny, airy, and loose. Additionally, cannabis plants in the blooming stage prefer somewhat warmer temperatures during the day and cooler temperatures at night. Airy buds are often connected with warm evenings.
Are huge buds preferable than little buds?
How large are the nuggets? – Typically, the larger the buds, the higher the quality, however each strain produces buds of varying sizes and shapes. Indicas are often more compact and dense, but sativas are typically less compact, fluffier, and viewed as less visually attractive.
Small buds, around the size of a marble or smaller, are aptly referred to as “Smalls” and are of inferior quality compared to bigger nugs. Large and little fruits can originate from the same harvest and plants, but the latter will be separated out during the packing process. Smalls are often crushed into pre-rolls, whereas huge nuggets are destined for pre-packaged flower.
Some brands provide smalls at a discount, and some explicitly specify “smalls” on the packaging.
What is curing in the food industry?
2. Curing Foods – Curing is the process of adding salt, sugar, nitrite, and/or nitrate to meats in order to preserve, taste, and color them. Some sources differentiate the use of salt alone as salting, corning, or salt curing, reserving the term curing for the use of salt in conjunction with nitrates/nitrites.
What is the process of curing in composites?
Due to its cosmetic characteristics, light-cured composite resins have been regarded as an important material in Restorative Dentistry. To achieve clinical and aesthetic success with this material, numerous factors must be considered, including the curing procedure.
There are three basic phases to the curing process of composite resins: pre-gel, gel point, and post-gel. In order to compensate for shrinkage stresses, the material may flow and undergo molecular rearrangement during the pre-gel phase. This phase is characterized by the prevalence of linear polymer chains.
The transition from the flow condition (pre-gel) to the viscous state (post-gel) determines the resin’s gel point. During the post-gel phase, the resin has a high modulus of elasticity, loses its fluidity, and passes the stress resulting from polymerization shrinkage to the tooth-restoration contact (5, 15, 16).
At this stage, the structure of the polymer is dominated by cross links. Studies have shown that curing method can affect the polymerization shrinkage of composites 3, 4, 8-11, and 15. The incomplete curing of composite resins is associated with a decrease in their mechanical properties and biocompatibility, an increase in their residual monomer content, and a change in their clinical performance due to esthetic impairment, with a high tendency to surface staining and the possibility of marginal leakage.
Consequently, many curing procedures have been proposed to solve the issues associated with polymerization shrinkage, particularly postoperative sensitivity and marginal leakage.3 – 7 : Two-stage procedure in which low light intensity is administered for a certain time period, followed by strong light intensity for a further predetermined time interval.
Ramped method (progressive) – initial low light intensity is applied, then it is gradually increased over a period of time until it reaches a high final value, which is maintained until exposure is complete. Pulsed-delay method (delayed pulse) — initial low light intensity is applied for a period long enough to permit surface cure.
Allow 3 to 5 minutes for slow internal polymerization to proceed. During this time, surface finishing and polishing should occur, followed by a second exposure at a higher light intensity. The purpose of these techniques, which involve initiating light-curing with a low light intensity and a delay time, is to permit the occurrence of a more pronounced pre-gel phase, which would provide a low rate of monomer conversion and thus permit material flow, resulting in low internal stress from shrinkage and a good marginal adaptation.
In the last phase of these processes, the completion of curing at a high light intensity would offer the requisite degree of conversion for achieving good physical and mechanical qualities.4 , 6 , 7 , 10 , 11 , 18 . The microhardness measurement of a restorative material is indicative of its mechanical, physical, and biological qualities.7 .
The hardness test is an indirect method for determining the level of curing 1. Since studies have shown a strong link between the Knoop hardness number (KHN = kg/mm 2) and infrared light spectroscopy, a direct method for determining the degree of conversion of monomers, it is reasonable to use this test extensively as a parameter for study of curing.6 .
What is the definition of curing in microbiology?
Abstract. Plasmid curing is the process of eliminating plasmid-encoded functionalities in bacteria, such as antibiotic resistance, pathogenicity, aromatic chemical breakdown, etc.
What is the process of concrete curing called?
What Is Concrete Curing? – Concrete curing is the process of retaining appropriate moisture in concrete within the correct temperature range in order to facilitate cement hydration at early ages. Hydration is the chemical interaction between cement and water that produces numerous compounds that contribute to cement’s setting and hardening.
- The hydration process is affected by the beginning temperature of the concrete, the ambient air temperature, the concrete’s size, and the mix design.
- Therefore, in-situ concrete must have adequate moisture and a temperature that promotes this chemical reaction at a quick and constant pace for this method to be successful.
Request an online demonstration of our SmartRock Wireless Sensor. The American Concrete Institute (ACI) recommends a minimum cure duration of seventy percent of the concrete’s compressive strength. This is frequently mentioned to be possible after seven days of healing.