How To Replace The Pull Cord On A Stihl Weed Eater?

How To Replace The Pull Cord On A Stihl Weed Eater
How To Replace The Pull Cord On A Stihl Weed Eater 11. Wind the pull cord rope around the coil and secure it in the groove using scotch tape. – Wind the drawstring around the coil Eddie Carrara

How do you repair a weed wacker’s starting pulley?

How to Replace a Pull Cord on a Weed Whacker A weed eater is also referred to as a string trimmer, line trimmer, weed whip, and weed wacker. They all utilize monofilament line to cut grass, edge around solid surfaces, and give your lawn a professional appearance.

  1. Gasoline-powered weed eaters have a handle-mounted pull rope.
  2. When the handle is pulled, the crankshaft is spun, and the engine is started.
  3. To start your engine, you must replace any pulleys that do not retract properly, are damaged, or are frayed.
  4. Place your weed eater on a flat surface and give it sufficient time to cool down.

Remove the rubber boot directly from the spark plug to prevent accidental starts and injury. Put on gloves to safeguard your hands. Using a screwdriver, remove the screws from the starting pulley housing. The screws are located around the borders of the plastic covering that encases the pulley.

  1. The amount of screws varies across models.
  2. Place the starting pulley housing on a level surface after removing it from the weed eater.
  3. By the handle, partly remove the cable from the assembly.
  4. Cut the rope below the handle and use needle-nose pliers to remove the knot from the pull handle.
  5. Relax the pull cord’s tension and allow it to wind into the pulley.

Using a screwdriver, remove the assembly’s central screw. Pull the screw out in a straight line. Straight up, remove the starting hub and spring beneath it from the assembly. Remove the previous recoil pulley from the assembly. Remove the remaining pull string from the pulley.

Remove the knot from the channel and snip it using scissors. Remove the old cable from the pulley in its entirety. Insert the end of a fresh pull cord that is not knotted from within the center channel through the exterior hole. Pull the cord through and put the knotted end into the center channel, then loop the cord through the channel in one complete round and tuck it into the center channel.

Wind the remaining cord counterclockwise on the pulley’s external slot and tuck its last two inches into the external slot to secure it. Insert the pulley into the housing and twist it gently to the left and right until the spring engages it. When it is correctly fitted, resistance will be felt.

  • On top of the pulley, replace the spring, starting hub, and starter hub screw.
  • To tighten the spring, rotate the pulley counterclockwise for roughly three revolutions.
  • Remove the cord’s end from the notch and thread it through the assembly’s hole.
  • Insert the cord’s end through the handle and tie an overhand knot to secure it.

Replace the component on your weed eater and tighten the screws using a screwdriver in a clockwise direction. Reattach the boot to the spark plug. How to Replace a Pull Cord on a Weed Eater

How can the draw rope of a weed eater be replaced?

How to Replace a Weed Eater’s Pull Rope The weed eater’s pull rope is used to start the engine. The pull rope is situated within the starting cord housing at the rear of the engine housing of the weed eater. The pull rope might get worn or damaged via everyday use, leading it to break.

  • When this occurs, a new pull rope must be installed so the weed eater may be properly started.
  • Place the trimmer on a flat surface, such as a workbench.
  • To ensure safety, disconnect the spark plug wire from the spark plug.
  • Find the pull start housing on the rear of the engine of the trimmer.
  • Remove the three Phillips-head screws from the lid of the starter using a Phillips-head screwdriver.

Remove the starting housing cover from the starter cover. Locate the spring clip, washer, and pawl in the housing’s center. Carefully remove the spring clip, followed by the washer and pawl. Remove any old rope from the rotor’s housing. Pull the old rope through the starting handle and properly dispose of it.

Cut a fresh length of rope cord using the old rope as a template. On one end of the fresh rope, tie a single overhand knot. Feed the opposite end of the rope through the top of the starting handle and the rope busing in the housing of the starter. Raise the rotor and remove it from the starting post. Feed the end of the rope through the rotor and make a single overhand knot in the rope’s end.

Reposition the rotor on the starting post. Turn the rotor gently from side to side in order to activate the rewind spring. Replace the pawl, washer, and spring clip, orienting the clip counterclockwise. Turn the rotor counterclockwise six complete revolutions to apply tension to the rewind spring.

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How do I connect the pull rope to the coil?

Questions & Answers – Question: How do I wind the bottom spring of my trimmer? Answer: See Step 13 from my essay. Turn the coil two revolutions counterclockwise to impart tension to the return spring. Question: My string got heated and melted after the second replacement.

How long should the string be? Do you know if I should use the 3 or 4mm Stihl string? The 4mm string becomes caught beneath the casing for the recoil spring. Answer: The string length should be around 2′ 6”. I suggest using 3mm string and avoiding overfilling the spool. On 30 May 2020, Eddie Carrara (author) from New Hampshire: Hi Mike, Installing it is simple if you wrap it around the coil until it is about full.

I am unaware of the exact length. I hope this is useful. Michael T on 28 May 2020: Hi – My old rope no longer exists, and I have no idea how long it was. How can I determine the length of the cord required for my trimmer? Eddie Carrara (author) from New Hampshire on the 4th of May, 2020: Hi Jim, Did this assist? The following will be true about Jim Courtright on May 1, 2020: I was unaware of the lower coil spring, just the top one!!?? [email protected] on the 25th of July, 2019: Step 4 of removing the coil unit resulted in the release of the coil unit’s lower spring; how can I rewind and reinstall it? I see where one end of the spring fits in the coil unit, but is the other end kept unattached until the coil unit is reinstalled? On 12 June 2019, Eddie Carrara (author) from New Hampshire: Hi CJC-9 23, The cable may have been too short, causing the mechanism to jam.

I suggest that you remove the cover and examine it. CJG-9-23 on 10 June 2019: What did I do wrong? I changed my pull cord and it worked for a while, but when I pulled it out this time, it did not retract (remained out). Glen on March 28, 2019: Excellent! Made my life easier. Thank you. Author Eddie Carrara from New Hampshire on February 25, 2019: You’re very welcome Ricky, thank you for the input; it is useful to know:) Ricky Gilbert, dated February 25: This was the most accurate and informative description I found on YouTube.

THANK YOU VERY MUCH! 11 June 2018, Eddie Carrara (author) from New Hampshire: Hi Lee, No, I don’t know the size, but I’m sure a tiny engine repair company will have it in their records. lee kulberda on June 09, 2018: Hi Eddie I have misplaced the rear cover bolts on my KM 56 RC.

Do you chance to know their dimensions? lk Eddie Carrara, a New Hampshire novelist, on April 30, 2018: Hi Karen, I’m ecstatic that you found my material helpful, and I truly appreciate you taking the time to leave a remark; you made my day:) Karen on April 28, 2018: After hours of studying videos to figure out how to fix my pull cord, I came on your video, which has amazing visuals and explanations that even an elderly lady like me can understand.

Thank you! Eddie Carrara (author) from New Hampshire on the 6th of February, 2018: Thank you for your comments. Virgil:) Virgil Smith on the 3rd of February, 2018: Replaced the rope on the pole shear. It utilizes the same recoil mechanism. Needed to use tweezers instead of a needle nose.

  1. A very little needle nose would likely suffice.
  2. Your lady should thread the cable through the end’s handle.
  3. It is difficult to maintain spring tension and thread the cable at the same time! Thanks, the images and explanations are useful! Eddie Carrara, a New Hampshire novelist, on October 31, 2017: Hi Kenneth, I just needed to repair my machine, so I took photographs along the route and prepared a step-by-step guide:) I sincerely appreciate the input provided.
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Kenneth C. Agudo, of Tiwi, Philippines, on 25 October 2017: Wow. Very concise and straightforward. Surely, you are an expert on this subject. Thanks 24 October 2016, Eddie Carrara (author) from New Hampshire: I Agree 100% Jack, regarding politics, I laugh.

On October 23, 2016, Jack: Excellent article! If only our politicians were so straightforward and effective. Thanks for your assistance. On August 22, 2016, Eddie Carrara (author) from New Hampshire wrote: Hello, Scott Everyone learns by trial and error; I struggled with mine, then wrote the essay and took photographs to assist others with the same problem.

Your feedback is crucial, so I appreciate you taking the time to comment:) On August 21, 2016, Scott said: Thanks eddiecarrara, I wish I had read this essay before since it is excellent. Similar to Chris D and Rolf, my bottom spring broke. I should have removed the spool with greater care.

  1. After rewinding and installing, the inner coil was not sufficiently tight to engage in the inner recess where it must hook for recoil, therefore I will likely need to purchase a new rotor with rewind spring as mentioned above.
  2. Thank you for providing the component number! Rolf von Andrian, dated 26 May 2016:

I experienced the same issue as ChrisD with the bottom spring coming loose. The secret is to place the spring in the shell backwards, as it is bent while it is laying tensionless on the table. If you follow the link above, you can see how it should conclude.

  • On February 21, 2016, Eddie Carrara (author) from New Hampshire wrote: Chris, thank you for taking the time to offer this valuable information.
  • People like you keep this page going since there are so many difficulties that may arise when replacing a pull cord.
  • I could only relate what I encountered when I replaced my pull cord, but I’m sure the information you provided will assist many:) Christopher D on 19 February 2016: Thank you very much, Eddie.

This is really valuable information. I experienced the same issue as Tom N and LittleMCCBW, in which the underneath spring detached. The ring clip was missing from my unit (I suppose it fell off at some point), so when I followed Step 1 above, the rotor assembly flew out.

Two-thirds of the underneath spring were wrapped one way, while the other third were wrapped the opposite way. Since it does not begin its existence in this manner, it likely transforms throughout time. When fresh, it is tightly wrapped until the final three turns, which are then gradually angled inwards.

However, I cannot find a way to have it sit in this position once it has been utilized. Therefore, if this bottom spring breaks, the best solution is to purchase a replacement module (it’s a “rope rotor with rewind spring”) (Stihl Part Number: 4144-190-1111).

I have an image of how a brand-new underside spring appears (no way to post this pic that I can see). I spent several hours attempting to fix the underneath spring, so I hope my addition saves someone time! On July 4, 2015, Eddie Carrara (author) from New Hampshire wrote: Hello Jared Bring it to a hardware shop and have them match it up; if it’s missing, bring the component with you and they’ll help you locate something that matches.

Jared on 3 July 2015: Short version: I must replace the snap ring. Do you know its dimensions? On June 29, 2015, Eddie Carrara (author) from New Hampshire: Thanks for the update, that’s fantastic. I truly appreciate it, Tom Tom N on 26 June 2015: Thanks.

  • Evidently, the lower spring adopted an unusual set.
  • Even the Stihl service technician was unable to reinstall it.
  • After purchasing a new pulley for a few dollars, I am back in business.13 June 2015, Eddie Carrara (author) from New Hampshire: Hi Tom, Take a good look at images #10 and #12, that should be sufficient; see how the spring is seated in the holder and repeat:) Please let me know how Tom is doing, thanks.
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Tom N on 12 June 2015: Eddie, if you’re still there, fumbled and dropped the pulley. The lower spring slipped out. The spring winds first in one direction, then the other. Cannot find out how to re-wrap it. Can you help? Thanks 4 June 2014, Eddie Carrara (author) from New Hampshire wrote: Hi Jon, Thank you for your thoughtful feedback; it is really appreciated.

  • You are extremely welcome, since I do this sort of thing for folks like yourself, who are simply seeking solutions to a problem.
  • Posted by JonSEAZ on 4 June 2014: Hi Eddie, I found your instructions on the Internet at
  • After breaking my pull cord (due, I believe, to not completely knowing how to utilize the Easy2 Start mechanism).

Excellent images and directions. Simple, comprehensive written instructions with accompanying images. Superior to most manufacturer manuals Thank you very much. You are performing a valuable service here. On May 23, 2014, Eddie Carrara (author) from New Hampshire: Hey Poop, simply Phillips head number 2 screws Poop on May 21, 2014: Which type of screw is on the front plate? On 11 May 2014, Eddie Carrara (author) from New Hampshire: Hi MA, I believe it’s roughly 2 feet of cord, so wind it on the spool till it’s just below the top of the spindle’s edges.

  • Please let me know if this was helpful.
  • MA on May 10, 2014: What are your thoughts on the length of the cord? Ours is completely broken, and we are attempting to replace it, but we need to know the length.
  • Help! 8 May 2014, Eddie Carrara (author) from New Hampshire: Hi LittleMCCBW, I do not know how to reinstall the spring because I have never removed it before.

I’m sorry I don’t know the solution, but you must have to coil it tightly enough to fit it in? Posted by LittleMCCBW on May 08, 2014: Hi Eddie Unfortunately, I attempted to follow the directions after reading them just once. I should have waited before leaving to borrow a pair of pliers for snap rings.

I didn’t tape the rope into the groove, so when I turned counterclockwise to put stress on the return spring, the rope became tangled, and when I took the coil assembly out a second time to correct it, the smaller spring beneath that you don’t show in your photographs JUST POPED RIGHT OUT! Scared me to death, but I’ve been unable to wind the spring tightly enough to reassemble it.

My hands become painful, exhausted, and cramping rapidly. This season is a bear. Is there a trick I can employ? 11 January 2014, Eddie Carrara (author) from New Hampshire: To increase tension to the rope, please refer to steps 12, 13, and 14. Please let me know if this was helpful.

Mr. crab on 10 January 2014: My trimmer is a STIHL FS 56rc. I am installing a new pulley, but I cannot get the spring to keep tension while I tie the other end. How do you pull this rope ahead while applying strain to this string? Am I overlooking something? Eddie Carrara, a New Hampshire novelist, on August 22, 2013: Hello Tomcat I haven’t disassembled this in a long, but I believe you’re referring to step 13 in the images.

Turn the coil counterclockwise twice to provide tension to the return spring. However, before doing this step, you must complete step 12 and rotate the coil in the housing until it drops into position. Please let me know if this helps, Tomcat. On August 22, 2013 for Tomcat: Hi Eddie, This is extremely useful, but I need to unwind the coil on the underside that is not depicted in your images.

  • Any advice would be appreciated, since I am unable to locate any online guides or tutorials that explain how to do so.
  • Eddie Carrara from New Hampshire on 11 June 2013: Thanks Eugbug, This trimmer is rather simple to remove, and the spring has little recoil:) I appreciate your vote and your time spent reading:) Eugene Brennan, born in Ireland on 11 June 2013: If only all trimmers were constructed this way! I nearly had to disassemble my bargain-basement trimmer to get the pulley and cable! Also, there is no harm in wearing safety glasses when changing the cord, in case the spring springs out.

Upvoted, informative, and intriguing!